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- by Nazilkree
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I've put this page together to explain some of the ins and outs of running nitrous oxide on your f-body. Hopefully, these will be useful for those considering a nitrous installation, or just wanting to know what it's all about. There are many differing opinions on the "right" installation, or "right" philosophy, and I'm starting this page with my own knowledge and opinions. Please feel free to email me if you disagree with something I've said, I'll try to add your position to the page. Nitrous Oxide N 2 O, I'll call it "nitrous" here is a non-flammable gas that's used for our purposes as a carrier for oxygen. Mixed with the right proportions of fuel, and fed into the intake, it provides additional combustible material into the cylinders, hence more power.
That's everything!How To Install a Nitrous Express System Tutorial Instructions Overview
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NOS News. Allied aircraft used it for emergency boosts in airspeed and altitude capabilities. By the end of World War II, jet propulsion had been invented and the United States' government was losing interest in piston-powered aircraft.
For nearly thirty years, the application of nitrous oxide on vehicles would be privileged information. Racers dabbled with nitrous oxide injection from time to time with varied results. It wasn't until the late s when two racers perfected its use. During the first several years, NOS spent most of its resources demonstrating that nitrous oxide was an efficient, safe form of performance enhancement.
If you can't do option 1 above because you don't have two available ports, first thread in the pressure gauge, and cycle the key. Then time how long it takes for the pressure to bleed down to the correct level. Then disconnect the pressure gauge, install the FPSS, and do the process against the clock rather than the pressure. A rule of thumb is two degrees per 50hp of nitrous, but this will also reduce the power generated.
When I tune my system, I monitor engine knock, and retard the timing only enough to eliminate the knock, which is usually about one degree per 50hp. At the track, under harder conditions actually pulling the weight of the car, possibly higher outdoor temperatures, etc I'll add a degree of retard. The LT4 Knock Module is a common modification to 4th generation f-bodies.
This device dulls the sensitivity of the knock sensor readings, which allows the PCM to avoid seeing noises from headers, exhaust and loud valvetrain parts incorrectly as knock. The net result is that the overall timing of the engine is advanced a bit, and the PCM is a bit less sensitive to all knock, whether real or false.
Unfortunately, knock when running nitrous has more of a chance of doing damage, and it's not at all clear that using a LT4 KM while running nitrous would be a good thing.
Once again, though, it's your call on all these safety issues.
High octane gas e. This will provide another way, similar to retarding timing, to avoid knock.
Make sure it's unleaded, of course, or you'll destroy your O 2 sensors. By the way, watch out for Octane Boost claims. Typical claims are " points of octane boost for a tank of gas. So the above example will raise your octane from 92 to Don't assume that if high octane fuel helps on nitrous motors, that it'll help your naturally aspirated motor too.
A naturally aspirated motor is tuned for a particular octane of gas; adding more doesn't help one bit. Save your money. A simple part, but essential in any nitrous system. This filter is added in-line to your nitrous line, between the tank and the solenoid. Install it as close to the solenoid end as is convenient. It will trap any small particles that may come through the line, much like a fuel filter.
A common solenoid failure is due to some particle jamming it open. Your fuel system is the most important part of the system. The solutions to a good fuel system depend on the type of nitrous system you're using. A stock f-body fuel pump can usually supply enough fuel for around total horsepower to the motor; any more and you want to get a larger pump.
How to Install Nitrous Oxide
Much more than hp and you'll want larger fuel lines as well. On a dry system, not only do you want adequate fuel like the wet system, but on an LT1 setup the fuel is added by raising the fuel pressure, which forces more gas through the injectors.
In this scenario, it's typically recommended that you replace the stock fuel injectors with better quality not higher rating, just better, like Bosch injectors. These injectors are able to handle the increased fuel pressures necessary. Generally you want to use copper spark plugs as opposed to the stock platinum ones. You also want to reduce the gap from the stock 0. I've received a couple notes on why you use a smaller gap.
You could also increase the coil voltage instead of decreasing the gap, but I think using a smaller gap would be preferential since the spark time will be smaller. Therefore "blowing" the spark out. When you close the gap it cannot put out the spark as easily.
Nitrous hook up
Some of the issues here may be hard to cover with only other safety devices. I recommend you wire your solenoids with spade clips, so you can easily disconnect them, and test them on a regular basis.
Simply disconnect them from the rest of the wiring, then ground one side, and connect the other side to 12V, and listen for the click-click to make sure they open and close. Some folks will also use two nitrous solenoids, in-line, which will ensure that both would have to fail before the flow would fail to stop.
Of course you still need to test this setup, to ensure one isn't stuck open. Tuning All of the kit systems will come with a couple tuning setups, labeled "shot", "shot", etc.
These are tuned to provide 50,or other horsepower amounts, usually measured at the crank i. I consider these a starting point, and certainly good for your first passes hopefully you'll make these with the lowest power, until you tune the system up. Once you've got the system installed and functional, though, tuning it is paramount, before running any serious power through it.
I really recommend you do this tuning right away, even though the temptation will be strong to just go out and enjoy the power. This is the time you're very likely to do some serious damage to the motor, so it's important to get it set up right.
I'm not going to go through a bunch of details on tuning here, other than to mention some ideas. You've got a plumbing system to test, as well as an electrical system. You'd like to test each component of both systems, to verify that it's correctly doing it's job. I suggest doing most of this in your garage, with the nitrous and fuel lines removed from the intake, and pointing or held into a rag.
Keep in mind the nitrous line will give a good kick under pressure, so don't just leave it loose to whip around. You can test your WOT switch easily enough, your window switch maybe set the window range at a lower rpm for the test, so you don't have to rev up to your red line. To test your fuel pressure switch, you'll need to verify it's got a closed circuit when the engine is running showing adequate pressurebut you'll also want to verify that it opens the circuit as fuel pressure drops.
There are a couple ways to do this. On my car, the fuel pressure bleeds off at about 2psi per hour. So if I switch the engine off, I can use an ohm meter to check continuity across the FPSS connections, and within a couple hours it should switch off. For the plumbing, you of course want to verify that there are no fuel or nitrous leaks in the system.
You should be able to leave your nitrous bottle open for hours without losing bottle pressure. On the fuel side, of course a fuel leak may be the most disastrous possibilityso check this first by pressurizing the system turn the key to "acc" but don't start the car and feel around all the fittings.
From stock engines to race vehicles, jet skis to trucks, NOS has a kit for you. How to Set Up and Operate an NOS Nitrous Refill Pump Station · NOS Releases . A "dry system" only feeds nitrous into the intake, and tricks the existing fuel system to . Typically, you'd get your stock PCM programmed to set the rev limit up. NOTICE: The NOS Competition Cheater System Kit is not intended for use on Connect the outlet port of the fuel solenoid to the injector plate using the.
I haven't listed all possibilities, but hopefully given you an idea of where to start testing. Once everything seems to check out, put in a set of 50hp jets, and move out on the street All nitrous systems use "jets" inserted in the fuel or nitrous lines to limit the flow.
These jets have openings of a specific size, measured in thousandths of an inch. So a "35 jet" is a jet with a hole drilled 0. Increasing a nitrous jet size will make the system run more lean, increasing the fuel jet size will make the system run more rich. There's also a good web site with a jet size calculator on it for a wet setup where you're metering the fuel and nitrous yourself. It will give you jet sizes based on desired horsepower, fuel and nitrous pressure. I recommend you use these as a target, maybe start a bit richer than shown.
Mustang Nitrous Systems Overview: Differences Between Wet and Dry Kits
I don't have information here on the use of a jet to apply vacuum pressure to a fuel pressure regulator, as in the NOS kit. The use of jets for this purpose, and calling them "fuel jets" is NOT related in any way to the normal use of fuel jets in a wet system, and I'm not aware of algorithms that would allow you to select these jets in combination with nitrous jets, to create a certain amount of horsepower.
Contact the nitrous kit vendor for recommendations. I run most of my nitrous passes while logging with an Autotap, and also use it at the dyno. You'll be monitoring the oxygen sensor voltages, knock, etc, and adjusting the jets to provide the best combination.
Then connect the nitrous and fuel lines from the solenoids to the plate. Being a hp system, we started with the hp jets (the smallest units. With no other modification is it as easy to hook up tens of hundreds of horsepower will little more than a The two nitrous kits on the market are wet and dry kits. Probably the best place to start is with the nitrous bottle itself. mass over the rear of the car, thus aiding traction and hookup when launching at the track.
Note, though, that the stock oxygen sensors are not particularly good, and a wideband O2 sensor say, at a dyno is much better to use if you have access to one. Typical O2 values should be around mv higher is richer when running the motor normally aspirated, and I try to tune mine to on nitrous. As mentioned above, you'll adjust jet sizes up or down to enrich or lean out the mixture.
You can add timing retard to reduce knock. Doing your scanner tuning at a dyno provides another benefit, since you can see the power the engine is generating, while you tune the system.
It also makes the whole tuning process easier than racing up and down the track, swapping jets in the pits, waiting in lines, etc. A built, forged motor can take quite a bit more, hp is probably reasonable, but you'll be going to direct port if you want more power. On a six-cylinder motor, hp seems to be the highest "safe" setup. Of course, I use the term "safe" very loosely here, to mean that folks have run this amount of nitrous for quite a while without blowing up their engines.
Most nitrous systems are build with a purge feature. The purpose of a purge is to get liquid nitrous oxide up to the front of the car, filling the hoses with nitrous rather than air.
To do this, another solenoid is used, but rather than shooting the nitrous into the motor, it's usually shot up over the hood, so you can purge until it creates a nice fog. It also looks real cool :. Of course, no fuel is used during a purge.
It's virtually mandatory that you install your nitrous system with a bottle heater, which is used to raise up the temperature of the bottle, and therefore increase the pressure at which the nitrous is delivered.
If you don't use one, your pressure will quickly drop and won't supply the volume of nitrous your vehicle was tuned for. Normally, your nitrous bottle should be kept closed, with no pressure in the nitrous lines. But when you're lined up against that guy that just looks a bit too fast, you'd hate to say "excuse me, do you mind if I hop out and open my bottle in the trunk? Easy solution, get a remote bottle opener! Most vendors have such a device, which allows you to open the bottle electrically via a switch on your dash.
You can break tons of other parts on your car by running nitrous, or any other large power adder. Running slicks at the track will just accelerate the damage. Here are a few things to keep in mind. The huge torque spike at low rpm's is particularly hard on clutches. I had to buy a new clutch as soon as I made my first pass with nitrous on slicks. Keep in mind, on a manual transmission car, you're likely to need one too. Not unique to nitrous, but certainly a common failure on high horsepower cars, is the rear end.
A 4th generation f-body, with a stock bolt rear end, is not going to last long on nitrous. With all the extra power, you'll have trouble hooking up with any traction, especially on street tires.